Installing new cabinets in your kitchen or bathroom provides a great opportunity to upgrade the look and functionality of these important rooms. As you plan for your new cabinets, an important consideration is what type of wall material to use behind them – specifically, whether drywall is required there or if you can get by with a different surface. Understanding the pros and cons of using drywall behind cabinets can help guide your decision.
What is Drywall?
Drywall, also known as wallboard, sheetrock or gypsum board, is a panel made of gypsum plaster pressed between two thick sheets of paper. Drywall is the most common interior wall surfacing material used in construction today.
Here are some key advantages of drywall that explain its popularity:
- Smooth and consistent surface – The paper facings create an even, seamless look, which allows for easy decorating. Drywall can be evenly painted or wallpapered over.
- Fire resistance – The gypsum core contains crystallized water molecules that help slow the spread of fire. This makes drywall a good firewall material.
- Strength – While not as sturdy as plywood or OSB, drywall still has good structural strength for most applications. The gypsum and paper provide rigidity.
- Sound dampening – Drywall helps block sound transmission through walls, important for privacy. The gypsum absorbs vibrations.
- Moisture resistance – Drywall holds up well to moisture exposure periodically, such as in bathrooms. The facings are moisture-resistant.
- Ease of installation – Drywall panels are relatively lightweight and easy to cut, nail or screw to framing. Joints are taped and mudded for seamless finish.
So in summary, drywall is an versatile, affordable wall surfacing material used throughout homes. But is it required behind cabinets? Let’s look closer.
Should You Use Drywall Behind Cabinets?
Whether drywall is needed behind kitchen or bathroom cabinets depends on several factors:
Fire Safety
If your local building codes require a firewall behind cabinets, especially adjacent to a cooking range, drywall is likely required. The fire-resistant nature of drywall prevents flames from spreading as quickly through walls. However, codes are loosening on requiring drywall behind cabinets in some areas.
Moisture Protection
In bathrooms or damp areas of kitchens, moisture-resistant drywall may be preferred behind cabinets. Greenboard or other specialty drywall resists moisture better than plywood or OSB. This helps prevent swelling, warping or delaminating of the wall surface over time.
Smooth Finish
For easier decorating down the road, drywall provides an evenly finished surface if you plan to paint behind cabinets. Plywood or OSB would require extra prep work for an equivalent smooth surface before painting.
Sound Dampening
Drywall blocks sound transmission better than less dense surfaces. In shared wall applications, or where noise control is important, drywall behind cabinets can help dampen noise.
Strength and Durability
On attaching cabinets securely, drywall performs adequately, though plywood or OSB provide a more robust fastening surface. Drywall alone may not have the strength to securely anchor to heavy cabinets long-term without potential pull-out or collapse.
So drywall behind cabinets offers some benefits like fire and moisture resistance in certain situations, but may not be mandatory. Many factors, like your specific walls and cabinet loads, come into play. Always check your local building codes for any requirements too.
Alternatives to Drywall Behind Cabinets
If drywall is not required in your case, here are some common alternative wall materials used behind kitchen or bathroom cabinets:
Plywood
Plywood provides a smooth and consistent finish like drywall once painted. It is stronger and more durable than drywall for attaching cabinets firmly long-term. Moisture-resistant plywood is available for damp areas. Fire-rated plywood meets code in some cases too.
OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
OSB is an engineered wood product like plywood, made of wood chips and adhesives pressed into panels. It is stronger than drywall and costs less than plywood. Moisture-resistant OSB is made for humid areas.
Tile Backerboard
Cementitious tile backerboard, like Durock or HardieBacker, provide a durable, waterproof surface for tile installations. These specialized panels are commonly used behind tile backsplashes or tub/shower surrounds.
Existing Surfaces
In some cases, you can attach cabinets directly to existing drywall, plaster, paneling, or even old cabinets. As long as the surface is smooth, consistent and sturdy enough to anchor firmly.
Painted Plywood or OSB
For budget-friendly projects, painting the exposed side of plywood or OSB provides a good finished look once cabinets are installed. Saves the cost of drywall.
So in summary, several alternatives to drywall may work fine behind cabinets, depending on your specific project requirements. The strongest and smoothest options are plywood and OSB.
Installing Cabinets Over Drywall vs. Other Surfaces
Installing kitchen or bathroom cabinets over drywall involves similar techniques as other surfaces, but here are some differences:
Drywall
- Use longer drywall screws to anchor cabinets firmly to studs
- Pre-drill holes in drywall to prevent tearing paper surface
- Use hollow wall anchors like toggle bolts for added strength
- Shim cabinets to compensate for uneven drywall surface
Plywood & OSB
- Pilot holes recommended to prevent wood splitting
- Secure cabinets with wood screws into studs
- Provides robust base for anchoring heavy cabinets
- Easier to shim and scribe for an even cabinet line
Tile Backerboard
- Provides stable surface for cabinets above tub/shower
- Use corrosion-resistant screws to avoid moisture issues
- Cement board very durable and moisture-proof
- May need to fur out wall surface to compensate for thickness
Existing Surfaces
- Anchor into studs for strength whenever possible
- Hollow wall anchors also useful for added holding power
- May need filler panels or shims for uneven surfaces
- Abrade glossy surfaces before adhering to improve bond
So installing over drywall vs. other surfaces just requires adjusting your fastening methods and preparation practices. The key is securing cabinets firmly to an even and stable wall surface.
Should Cabinets Butt to Drywall or Have Finished Ends?
Another consideration with drywall behind cabinets is whether to run cabinet sides flush to the drywall surface, or add finished side panels:
Butt to Drywall
Having cabinet sides butt directly to drywall saves time and money. No need for additional filler panels or finished end pieces. The drywall forms the exterior side surface. Often used in informal areas like garages, laundry rooms or pantries with open shelving.
Finished End Panels
Adding finished side panels gives cabinets a more upscale, built-in look. The panels can match cabinet door material and finish for a seamless appearance. Hides uneven drywall surfaces. Popular for formal spaces like master baths and high-end kitchens. Adds cost.
Overlay Door Styles
Overlay cabinet doors, like full overlay or partial overlay, also provide a built-in look with wood sides not visible. Especially effective for a seamless drywall transition.
Inside Corners
Extra care required for smooth finish where cabinet and drywall meet at inside corners. Filler strips, caulk and careful taping required.
Deciding between a flush drywall vs. finished cabinet end depends on your style, budget and installation situation. A seamless drywall transition can look great with overlay doors, but finished ends provide a luxury look.
Drywall Prep Tips Before Cabinet Installation
Here are some tips for prepping and working with drywall behind cabinets for the best results:
- Inspect drywall surface for damage, uneven joints, or texture. Fix any flaws for smooth surface.
- Look for signs of moisture damage and repair with mold/mildew resistant drywall as needed.
- Mark stud locations for securing cabinets to structural framing.
- Clean dust or debris from back of cabinets that could impair adhesion to drywall.
- Cut drywall back about 1/8″ from corners for room to apply finishing trim strips or scribe.
- Apply primer/sealer to raw drywall edges to reduce absorption when finishing ends.
- Check level and plumb of wall surface. Shim out any cabinets if drywall is uneven.
- Use longer drywall screws driven into studs for robust support.
- Carefully cut out drywall behind stove backsplash area for easier installation of whirlpool boxes, receptacles.
- Apply caulk, trim pieces and tape for clean finished ends where cabinet sides meet drywall.
Planning your drywall prep work carefully will lead to a smooth cabinet installation. Taking time to make the wall surface behind cabinets consistent pays dividends in the quality and function of the finished job.
Tips for Drywall Repairs Behind Cabinets
Over time, wall surfaces behind cabinets can become damaged due to plumbing leaks or other issues. Here are tips for repairing drywall once cabinets are installed:
- Carefully remove sink base or vanity cabinet for access to repair area.
- Cut back damaged drywall to expose half of stud bays on each side of hole. Screw backings in place.
- Measure gap precisely and cut drywall patch to fit. Secure firmly with drywall screws.
- Apply self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape over seams for strength. Joint compound over tape.
- Let compound dry fully according to product directions before sanding smooth.
- Prime sanded patch well so new paint will bond evenly to surrounding surfaces.
- Touch up paint on entire wall area behind cabinet for consistent appearance.
- Re-install cabinet securely checking for level and plumb. Caulk trim gaps if needed.
- Use filler panels to cover unfinished sidewall areas exposed after old cabinets removed.
- Replace any moisture-damaged cabinets or underlayment with new mold-resistant materials.
While repairs require some cabinet removal, damaged drywall behind cabinets can be patched smoothly following standard drywall finishing procedures. Precise work will result in repairs invisible once cabinets are re-installed.
Moisture-Resistant Drywall Options Behind Cabinets
When installing cabinets in damp areas like bathrooms or kitchens, moisture-resistant drywall is a smart choice:
Greenboard
This drywall has a water-repellent wax paper facing instead of regular kraft paper. Helps withstand periodic moisture exposure. Commonly used behind tile backsplashes.
Purpleboard
Similar to greenboard but incorporates fiberglass strands for improved strength. The purple tinted paper facing resists molds and mildew. Useful behind sinks and toilets.
Cement Board
Made of concrete and cellulose fibers, cement board is extremely moisture-proof and durable. Requires specialized cutting tools. Used for tub/shower walls as a tile backing.
Mold-Resistant Drywall
Treated paper facings prevent mold growth, ideal for humid areas. Brands like DensArmor Plus help combat recurring bathroom mold issues behind sinks and toilets.
Waterproof Drywall
New super-hydrophobic drywall products like CertainTeed Aqua Tough repel over 250% more moisture than typical drywall. Ideal for areas prone to leaks or flooding.
Moisture protection is critical behind bathroom vanities, kitchen sinks, dishwashers and other damp areas. Mold can grow within 48 hours on regular drywall if water exposure occurs. Investing a few dollars more per sheet in mold-resistant drywall when installing cabinets can prevent thousands in remediation costs down the road.
Fire-Rated Drywall Options Behind Cabinets
Special fire-rated drywall may be required by code in cabinet locations adjacent to cooking appliances. Fire safety codes continue to evolve, so always check local regulations.
Here are some common fire-rated drywall products if required in your cabinet installation:
- Type X – Basic fire-rated drywall, with gypsum core reinforced with glass fibers. Provides 1-hour fire resistance.
- Type C – Additional chemical binders give 2-hour fire resistance rating. For high fire-risk areas.
- 5/8″ Thickness – Thicker than standard 1/2″ drywall. Improved fire resistance and strength.
- Double Layer – Two layers of fire-rated drywall applied for maximum protection. Some codes require this next to ranges.
- Mold Resistant – Brands like DensArmor Plus Fireguard combine mold prevention with fire resistance for kitchens.
Be sure to use fire-rated fasteners like screws when installing fire-rated drywall behind cabinets. Check local codes for exact requirements on placement next to appliances with open flames. Fire-rated caulk is also used to seal gaps for improved fire containment.
Drywall Finishing Options Behind Cabinets
Since drywall behind cabinets is not a decorative focal point, simpler finishing levels are often suitable:
Level 0 – No Finishing
Just drywall sheets installed, taped at seams only. Works behind opaque cabinet backs or fully enclosed cabinet ends. Saves time and cost.
Level 1 – Basic Taping
Joint compound over all seams and corner beads only. No skim coat applied. Provides basic seam reinforcement.
Level 2 – Single Skim Coat
Thin skim coat of joint compound over entire surface after taping. Minimizes texture differences between panels.
Level 3 – Smoothest Finish
Multiple skim coats applied for perfectly smooth surface. Excess work behind cabinets. Used where sides are visible.
A Level 1 or 2 drywall finish is sufficient behind most cabinets. The cabinet interiors and bases will cover drywall anyway. Focus finishing efforts on visible wall and ceiling surfaces instead. Exceptions are cabinets with glass doors or open sides that expose interior drywall surfaces.
Drywall Alternatives Offering Moisture/Fire Resistance
While regular drywall suffices for many cabinet installations, specialty panels provide added moisture, mold or fire protection:
- Cement Board – Extremely water-resistant and durable. Used for tub/shower surrounds.
- Mold-Resistant Drywall – Treated paper facings combat bathroom humidity and moisture issues.
- Fire-Rated Drywall – Reinforced drywall meets building code requirements for fire safety in kitchens.
- Fire-Rated Cement Board – Best of both worlds. Provides a fire-resistant subsurface for tile around stoves.
- Glass Mat Faced Board – Embedded fiberglass mesh is moisture and mold proof. For high humidity areas.
- Magnesium Oxide Board – Non-combustible, completely fireproof. Alternative to cement board without the weight.
Modern building materials offer excellent options to protect against moisture damage and flames behind cabinets. Avoidable disasters like mold growth and house fires make investing in upgraded panels a wise choice during remodeling projects. Consult local building codes and talk to your contractor about smart drywall choices.
Installing New Drywall Behind Existing Cabinets
Sometimes it becomes necessary to replace damaged or inferior drywall behind cabinets that are staying in place during a kitchen or bath remodel. This saves both time and money compared to removing the cabinets. Here are some tips for installing new drywall behind existing cabinets:
- Remove doors, drawers and shelving from cabinets for easier access into the interior. Number pieces for reinstallation.
- Take down old damaged drywall by cutting it into manageable sections that can fit through cabinet openings.
- Vacuum and clean out remaining drywall pieces, dust or insulation from interior cabinet recesses.
- Measure for new panels allowing 1/8″ gaps along edges for finishing with tape/compound beads.
- Use drywall lift or support braces to hold panels in place behind cabinet frames during fastening.
- Screw new panels into studs using drywall screws long enough to secure firmly. Stagger seams between walls.
- Apply joint compound, tape and trim beads inside cabinet recesses to finish seams and corners of new drywall.
- Sand joins smooth once compound dries fully, then touch up paint inside cabinet interiors to match walls.
- Carefully reinstall cabinet doors, drawers, shelves and hardware using original numbering system.
- Caulk around cabinet trim where it meets new drywall for a clean finished transition.
With some effort, new drywall can be retrofitted behind existing cabinets for an improved moisture or fire-resistant wall surface without the cost of cabinet removal and reinstallation.
Drywall Patching Tips for Holes Behind Cabinets
Holes in drywall surfaces behind cabinets might be caused by plumbing repairs, electrical work, or simply accidentally damage that occurs over time. Here are some tips for easily patching small holes behind cabinets:
- Carefully push any protruding insulation or debris back into the hole so it is flush with the wall surface.
- Measure the hole width and cut a drywall patch about 2″ wider on all sides. Cut patches with a utility knife or drywall saw.
- To stabilize light switches or outlets, place wood blocks behind the box edges flush with the wall surface while patching.
- Position the drywall patch over the hole and secure in place with drywall screws driven into the surrounding wall or studs.
- Apply self-adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall tape over the seams between the patch and wall.
- Skim over the tape with layers of joint compound, allowing it to fully dry between coats.
- Once dry, sand the patch smooth and flush with the surrounding drywall surface. Avoid over-sanding.
- Prime and paint the sanded patch using a small brush or roller to blend it seamlessly into the wall color.
- Reinstall baseboards or trim pieces around cabinets to cover unfinished patch edges as needed.
With careful cutting and securing, small holes can be patched structurally while